Is this how it works?

Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 3:21 am

Hi again,

I think i understand how this hobby works. you go to www.geocaching.com and look up the area you want to see if there is a cach. or is there just Wi ones somwere on this site? you download the waypoints into you GPS and go find it. once you find it you take somthing and leave somthing there and put it back the way you found it. I guess there is like a paper log with it or somting. then once your home you log it as proof you found it. Is this right? cool if it is i guess there 1 about 2.5
miles from my house. were do you log it ? somwere on this site once you find one?
PS it there a pay membership for WGS? i found the pay membership on www.geocaching.com LOL WOOO cant wait to get started this is going to be a rockin......
Thanks,
jimmy c Norwalk WI

Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 8:41 am

You have figured it out yourself! You log the find in the same place you got your coordinates for the cache. Just click the link that reads "Log your visit". You must become a member to use the listing service at www.geocaching.com but it is free. If it is a sport you like, which it will be as soon as you try, ask any geocacher, you should become a premium member. The Membership is $30 per year, once again, reomended, but not required.

Good luck, and happy hunting.

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:42 pm

JHCJWI1 wrote:

once you find it you take somthing and leave somthing there and put it back the way you found it. I guess there is like a paper log with it or somting. then once your home you log it as proof you found it. Is this right?

Hey Jimmy

Sound like you have the jist of it pretty good. Just a few clarifying points so you can avoid nome newbie mistakes:

1. Signing the paper log in the cache is the true proof of your find. Most people also log online as well, but not all. The online log is a nice way to share your experience with the geocaching community and also lets people know that the cache is OK. OTOH, if you *don't* find the cache, an online DNF (did not find) also provides valuable feedback about a cache that is potentially missing. (Of course, some caches have lots of DNFs just because they are hard to find, not because they are missing.)

2. Trade even, trade up, or don't trade at all. Trading stuff in a cache is optional. If you do take something, leave something of equal or greater value. So many people trade out good stuff and leave junk which leads to the degredation of the cache contents and isn't fair to future finders. Trade item value is subjective of course, but a good rule of thumb is to think to yourself: "Would I be happy finding this here?" vs "Should I really be putting this in the garbage instead?" Stuff especially not to leave: food (attracts animals), anything broken or dirty, liquids.

3. Pay attention to the cache rating (those little stars on the cache page). Too many people starting out choose to try a difficult cache, don't find it, then get discouraged. Stick to 1-2 stars to begin with. Good luck and have fun!

WGA Member Joined: 2004-09-19 Posts: 473

Also on the "not to leave" list... matches, lighters, ammunition, knives of any kind... I think you get the idea. If it is not appropriate for children, don't leave it. There are many families out there who have small children. Sometimes (often) the kids find the cache, open it and are digging around before the adult can get there. It's better to be safe than sorry.

Enjoy the sport... attend an event or two to ask questions, see who the rest of us are and to have a good time.

Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 2:45 pm

thanks,
jimmy c

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:57 am

JHCJWI1 wrote:

Hi again,

I think i understand how this hobby works. .....
Thanks,
jimmy c Norwalk WI

You pretty much have it figured out. I still don't understand why some people feel the need to take a class to learn how to do this.